On July 25th, 12 weeks after breaking my collarbone, I was cleared to start climbing again. Honestly I was pretty surprised. At the six week mark the doctor looked at an x-ray and said that he saw no visible signs of healing but then all of a sudden I was good to go. The scariest part is that the break looked worse to me in the later x-ray than the newer one.
After 12 weeks of not being able to lift my left arm I was a little hesitant to climb on it. Now, granted, I had climbed a few days post surgery but I tried to take it easy and climb with my elbow below my shoulder. Not the easiest thing to do. For the first six weeks of my recovery I didn’t climb at all but I did try to stay active. At the six week mark when the doctor told me I couldn’t climb for another six weeks I decided to just take a break from pushing myself and have fun. I traveled up to Canada to visit family and friends and tried to focus on work.
Getting the go-ahead to start climbing was both a relief and a bit stressful. I am registered for a World Cup in Atlanta at the end of September. This means I only had three months to try and get into shape. I’m not sure I’ll make it but I started trying. The first two weeks I took it pretty easy, only climbing 1-2 days a week which for me is nothing at all. Then as I started getting more comfortable I started to push it a bit more and start hitting the gym for some training sessions.
Last weekend I actually had a day where I felt like I could push it. To my surprise I redpointed a 13c called ‘Super Dickman’ at ‘The Roost’ area of Mt Charleston. I tried this route a few times last year but always second day on and never really enough to get a good sequence. This year I managed to do it fourth try and I’m happy about that because I felt like I was climbing well last year. To be able to do a route quickly that I didn’t do last year was great. Hopefully I can continue to improve leading up to the World Cup and then use the fitness gained training for that competition to have a nice successful fall!
Here’s a few photos of me working “America’s Most Wanted” at the roost. Thanks Ed!
Posted on September 1st, 2012 by Mike Doyle
Filed under: Uncategorized