Mt Clark Climbing
Most people out there probably know Mt Clark from the ‘Progression’ or ‘King Lines’ climbing videos with Chris Sharma working, and then redpointing “Jumbo Love” - 5.15b. I’m a little older and I remember being inspired by Jorge Visser’s photos of Randy Leavitt climbing on this amazing overhanging limestone, in particular the route “Jumbo Pumping Hate”
Randy Leavitt - Jumbo Pumping Hate
This past weekend I was fortunate enough to get the opportunity to go out to Mt Clark. A couple friends were down from Canada (Hi Leslie and Kyle) and some locals were headed out. I’ll be honest. I had no idea what to expect. For years I had been hearing different rumors about this place; that the hike was three hours straight uphill in the blazing sun, that the drive would take your vehicle apart, or that the climbing was all super steep and scary.
Much to my delight the drive wasn’t too bad. The hike was about an hour (I headed straight to the third tier) and the climbing is varied and oh so much fun!
Jumbo Pumping Hate
Spencer Macroskey and I warmed up on some fun 5.11/5.12 routes to the left of the monastery (the main wall). Then we did a classic, uber classic, 13a called “1000 Churches”. Finally… I was ready. I went up “Jumbo Pumping Hate”. This route looks (and climbs) so amazing. There is actually a 50′ 12+ that leads into the steepest section of climbing. The upper wall is about 35 or 40 degrees overhanging and the ground drops away dramatically. As you climb you just get more and more exposed. It’s really quite exciting. Unfortunately I had to hang the draws. Now, I don’t mind hanging draws but I HATE cleaning draws of steep routes. So I went up once, placed the draws (but didn’t take enough), went up again, figured out a good sequence and then tried to redpoint. I actually made it through the crux move and fell on the last hard move. I probably could’ve tried it again but I was exhausted so I cleaned my draws and headed home knowing that I would return!
Posted on May 17th, 2010 by Mike Doyle
Filed under: Uncategorized
Mike, ever since I saw those photos of Randy, I’ve dreamt of that route. I wasn’t a sport climber back then, but now that 5.14 is within my sights, seeing that route gets me super psyched. One day I’ll make it out there for at least a few attempts at that rig…
Kris,
The route is fantastic. One of the classic lines in the country. Pretty much big holds with some big moves to a hard boulder problem and then an easy finish. I just redpointed yesterday. Let me know when you want to hit it up!