TV Time

I’ve never really been the kind of person to sit inside on a beautiful sunny day and watch TV (unless hockey is on) but this Saturday I almost didn’t want to leave my house. For fans of the non-conventional sports (not NBA, NHL, MLB) this weekend was amazing. The Bouldering World Cup in Sheffield, England was being streamed live, the REAL World Cup in South Africa was on, the Tour De France was starting, Wimbledon, PGA golf… it was almost too much to handle.

I woke up pretty early to watch the Bouldering World Cup qualifiers, then I turned on the World Cup to watch Germany vs Argentina (a dreadfully disappointing match) before dragging myself out climbing.

I have to say though, the match between Uruguay and Ghana was insane. I don’t really have a team that I am cheering for but I’d like to have seen Ghana get though for the African support. The final minutes in the game were so dramatic and intense I almost cried. After 90 minutes of regular time and 30 minutes of extra time Ghana was awarded a free kick from about 30 yards out as the final play of the game. The ball was crossed in superbly and directed on net, a defender blocked the ball with his legs and it shot back out only to be directed on goal again. At the goal line a defender couldn’t get to it with his head and put his hand on the ball so a penalty kick was awarded to Ghana with ZERO time left in the game. The penalty kick ended up hitting the crossbar and Ghana lost in the final penalty kicks. The sportsman in me thinks the handball on the goal line was one of the worst plays possible, the competitor in me loves it. Crazy.

Looking forward to the final few games of the World Cup and the Tour De France.

Surfing San Diego

This past weekend Pat Olson and I made the five hour drive from Las Vegas to San Diego for a little surfing and beach time. All in all it was a great weekend with lots of little stories.

Unfortunately I was unable to get out from work early so we left with a flurry of other vehicles from Vegas and everyone was in a rush. About an hour out of Vegas we almost got into an accident. We were travelling 75-80mph when a car directly in front of us had a blow-out on the driver’s side front tire. This happened when the highway southbound was only two lanes wide and a semi truck was to the right of the car. I was on the brakes quickly but not too hard and fortunately the driver of the car in front of us didn’t try to put the brakes on at all until he had control. He had to cross a small bridge then pulled off to the side of the road. The car behind me got closer than I would’ve liked and had to swerve into the right lane (I wasn’t swerving at all, not in my truck, not at that speed). It all happened quickly and we were able to continue on our way. Phew.

We arrived at Pat’s mom’s house around 9 and hung out for a bit. We had the big ambition of waking up at 5:30am to catch some sunrise surf.

Sure enough at 5:30am the alarms went off and we got up. We walked to the beach but it was pretty cloudy and cold out. Somehow we weren’t that motivated all of a sudden. We talked with Chris Lindner who knew some local beaches and he agreed to meet us at “Black’s Beach”. It was a bit of a walk to the surf which is good because it wasn’t that crowded. It was still early and there was noone on the beach. The surf was awesome, probably one of the better days I’ve had. The waves were friendly but with good size and easy to catch. We surfed for a few hours before going in to rest. Chris took off to do some work but Pat and I stayed for another session. After resting for lunch we met up with Pat’s mom and sister and went down to the beach to just hang out.

Now it turns out that while the walk to “Black’s Beach” means there is less people surfing, it is also happens to be a nude beach. This wasn’t your tropical paradise with a bunch of fit, good looking girls running around naked. No, this was a bunch of unfit (read fat) old dudes walking around naked. I couldn’t help but laugh. Picture any scene from Family Guy where Peter goes streaking (there’s enough scenes), that’s what it looked like. Oh, and old naked dudes playing volleyball… not cool.

We finished off with an evening surf session where the tide was really high. Enough that the a few sand bars were in play and the waves were really steep. As we were packing up the truck and ambulance pulled into the parking lot. Then a firetruck, a lifeguard truck and another few emergency vehicles. It turns out someone had an asthma attach or similar on the hike out. From our perspective we thought it was a small Asian woman since a group of her friends had waited for the paramedics at the top of the trail. On scene were probably 10 strong, healthy rescue dudes and the person was only 150-200′ down the trail yet still they decided to call in a helicopter. It took about 15 minutes for the helicopter to arrive and the lowered a guy in there, secured the patient and hauled them up. I was surprised they didn’t just put her on a stretcher and walk her out but what do I know.

By Sunday we were exhausted and slept in a bit. We ended up going to Leucadia and having a great day. The sun was out, the waves were gentle but consistent and we got lots of surf. There were enough waves coming through that noone was battling for waves and honestly I was tired enough that I probably let quite a few nice waves just roll by. My shoulders were so sore from paddling I wasn’t sure I was going to be able to turn my steering wheel.

All in all a great weekend but I need to hire a photographer :).

Climbing - Safety Issue

This video recently came to my attention. It’s a little scary in that I had never even heard of this happening before.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=20

Unfortunately this (and I hate to speculate) may have been a contributing factor to a recent climbing accident. In the video the guy demonstrates how it could be happen in a rucksack (that’s a backpack for you non-english (read american) types). I think a far more likely scenario would be someone who shortened up an open sling by doubling or tripling up the slings and then didn’t extend the sling properly. This is an easy scenario to recreate with the rubber draw holders, elastics or even tape.

Be careful out there people.

Mt Clark Climbing

Most people out there probably know Mt Clark from the ‘Progression’ or ‘King Lines’ climbing videos with Chris Sharma working, and then redpointing “Jumbo Love” - 5.15b. I’m a little older and I remember being inspired by Jorge Visser’s photos of Randy Leavitt climbing on this amazing overhanging limestone, in particular the route “Jumbo Pumping Hate”

Randy Leavitt - Jumbo Pumping Hate

Randy Leavitt - Jumbo Pumping Hate

This past weekend I was fortunate enough to get the opportunity to go out to Mt Clark. A couple friends were down from Canada (Hi Leslie and Kyle) and some locals were headed out. I’ll be honest. I had no idea what to expect. For years I had been hearing different rumors about this place; that the hike was three hours straight uphill in the blazing sun, that the drive would take your vehicle apart, or that the climbing was all super steep and scary.

Much to my delight the drive wasn’t too bad. The hike was about an hour (I headed straight to the third tier) and the climbing is varied and oh so much fun!

Jumbo Pumping Hate

Jumbo Pumping Hate

Spencer Macroskey and I warmed up on some fun 5.11/5.12 routes to the left of the monastery (the main wall). Then we did a classic, uber classic, 13a called “1000 Churches”. Finally… I was ready. I went up “Jumbo Pumping Hate”. This route looks (and climbs) so amazing. There is actually a 50′ 12+ that leads into the steepest section of climbing. The upper wall is about 35 or 40 degrees overhanging and the ground drops away dramatically. As you climb you just get more and more exposed. It’s really quite exciting. Unfortunately I had to hang the draws. Now, I don’t mind hanging draws but I HATE cleaning draws of steep routes. So I went up once, placed the draws (but didn’t take enough), went up again, figured out a good sequence and then tried to redpoint. I actually made it through the crux move and fell on the last hard move. I probably could’ve tried it again but I was exhausted so I cleaned my draws and headed home knowing that I would return!

Winter In Vegas

So this past winter was my first winter in Vegas and I have to tell you it rained a LOT! I didn’t think my powers to draw rain wherever I go would follow me to Vegas but I guess they did.

Fortunately there are lots of limestone areas around here to keep a person occupied. I spent most of January and February at the VRG belaying Sebastian on “Captain Fantastic” and watching him fall at the anchors (or stand on a bolt when he ‘redpointed’). Most of the people that I climb with around Vegas were more psyched on Mt Potasi this winter and I ended up spending my weekends up there through March and April. One of the days up there there were six guys working five different 5.14s and four girls working 13+, pretty cool. “Power Windows” 13d saw quite a few ascents, so did “Mon Pot Assis”, “Mixed Emotions” and “T-2″. Andy Raether (a new resident of Las Vegas) had his draws on a long time project, the extension to “Reverse Polarity” but the ascent will have to wait until next season.

All in all I managed to get quite a bit of climbing in without venturing far from home. Unfortunately I think I’ve picked the low hanging fruit and will have to step it up next season… I’m sure Bill will be delighted to watch me flail for weeks on end.