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Trip Journal - August 2007
Previous Entries:
Aug 28thLast Days In Rifle
Aug 24thThis Place Hurts
Aug 20thOld Man Rifle
Aug 12thSalt Lake City Tradeshow
Aug 6thFour Days In Riggins

Latest Entry:
The Long Road Home - August 31st
Now THAT was a long drive... 2600Kms in just over 24 hours. I think it's a new record for me but I am now safe and sound in Kelowna getting ready to head out on the road again with Audrey.

I left Rifle pretty early Wednesday morning and drove up to Boulder. After socializing at the Sportiva shop I treated my truck to a well deserved oil change and set off for Kelowna. I drove up through Wyoming as the sun was setting and I have to say there is some amazing rock there. Just north of a town called Casper were some fantastic looking boulder fields. I really was surprised to have never heard of it. I'm not sure what the season is like but the rock itself looked good. The drive itself was, as usual, pretty uneventful but fortunately I had the new Smashing Pumpkins CD - Zeitgeist and one of my favourites, Dave Matthews to keep me company. I made this same drive about 11 years ago when driving back from an ASCF National competition in Denver. It's weird the little things you remember and what you don't. For one thing I definitely don't remember that the drive was so long. I almost ran out of case in northern Wymoming and when I did pull off for gas the one station was closed but fortunately the pumps were still on. I was planning on sleeping right there until the station opened the next morning.

I slept at a rest area somewhere in Montana. I woke up after only a few hours sleep, crawled out of the back of my truck and was immediately asked directions from someone driving by. My mind wasn't fully functional yet and it took me a few minutes to formulate a sentence, something along the lines of "I'm a tourist, I have no idea". I finally rolled into Kelowna around 5:30pm, stopped at the local gym (Beyond The Crux) to say hi to Mike and April and then headed to my Parents' place.

Now I have to unpack my truck, sort my gear and get ready to head out again. Oh the joys of travelling... (yes it's a hard life).

Last Days in Rifle - August 28th
My trip to Rifle is finally coming to an end and I have to say that I was pretty happy with my climbing on this last portion of the trip. I was worried when I first showed up. I didn't know what kind of shape I'd be in, I didn't know how fast I would get used to the rock and I wasn't sure how easy it would be to find belay partners. All in all I did lots of climbing and every day I did a route that challenged me. One of my 'goals' when I arrived in Rifle was to try and climb at least one 5.13a or harder per day. After six climbing days I finished off the trip with 14 routes of that grade! I have to say that is way more than I anticipated or even dreamt of.

After redpointing Zulu I was't really sure what I wanted to focus on. A lot of people had been saying good things about two routes in particular; Living in Fear and Huge so I really wanted to try those. On Saturday I woke up late, or at least left the campground late and by the time I got down to the climbing area there was a large crowd of people at The Project Wall and quite a few people I knew. Also Kevin Wilkinson and two Japanese friends (Nii, and Kazo) had arrived yesterday from Maple so I managed to climb with them. After warming up I asked a friend (Luna from Colorado) to give me beta on Living in Fear. I wasn't really sure I wanted to try for the flash and then flail but I figured I might as well. Luna's beta was really good but he forgot one section and little and I ended up falling there, it wasn't his fault though I just couldn't commit to the move. Fortunately it was pretty low on the route and I just took my time going to the top from there. It was really warm today so I decided to try the route again the following day. After The Project Wall we went to The Wasteland where Nii really wanted to try a classic 5.13a called The Beast. Unfortunately I had mis-timed the sun and the route was just getting into it. We decided to head over to The Arsenal instead. Nii and Kazo tried Vitamin D while Kevin tried Pumporama. Kevin had only been to rifle for two days before and that was awhile ago. This place is hard to get used to. It's not so much the movement or the handholds but the slick feet and the funky body positions you have to get into. Kevin was sliding around through the crux and ended up falling but made his way to the top and finished the route with ease on his next attempt. After The Arsenal I walked over to The Well-Dunne Wall to try a route called Bride of Frankenstein. Again Luna gave me beta but I was dumb and didn't listen to him properly. There is a tricky hold near the third bolt that you have to slide your hand around on and get your foot beside your hand. I screwed that up, fell but managed to do the route next go.

We decided to get up a little earlier Sunday where I ate a breakfast of fruit salad and oatmeal. For some reason Kevin thought having fruit salad was not very manly but what can I say? I like fruit salad. After breakfast we again warmed up at The Project Wall. It was quite a bit cooler than the day before and the conditions felt quite good so I decided to try Living in Fear again. That route is amazing. Someone described it to me as 5.11 climbing bolt-to-bolt with no real cruxes but no rests either. The redpoint crux is a big move called The 5.8 Dyno. If you are hangdogging the route the move feels like a 5.8 move but on redpoint it is quite low percentage. I pulled through the bottom part, actually managed a rest on The bevelled edge and launched into the 5.8 Dyno, managing to stick it barely. After that it was a matter of trying to remember the sequence and hold on for dear life. I was quite surprised when I got to the top. This was another route that I felt I could have spent quite a few tries on, learning the moves and falling from making mistakes so I was quite happy to tick it off quickly. Since it was still early in the day we went down to The Wasteland where Nii wanted to try The Beast again. It was pretty busy down there with people on almost all the routes. Of course The Beast was busy but Nii dropped his rope in line and waited it out. He spent about 20 minutes figuring out the moves and when he came down noone was in line for it so I thought I'd try the extension. I had done The Beast when I was here 10 years ago but it pretty much felt like onsighting. The extension (The Beast With Two Backs) was fun and I recommend trying it. As the day moved on I headed over to The Bauhaus to try a route called Huge. The route was 35m long, steep at the bottom and a nice vertical/technical headwall leading to the anchors. Since I had been climbing well I thought I would try to onsight it. I borrowed some binoculars from Emily and spent about 30 minutes studying the route. I pretty easily identified the crux and, I thought, how to get through it. Unfortunately I just mis-timed a rather dynamic move downlow so my onsight was short lived. I then worked the moves to the top and managed to redpoint it next go. Three more 5.13s down! It must have been the fruit salad :)

Monday was a rest day which was fortunate timing since it rained most of the day. It wasn't very exciting as my rest days tend to be since I mostly just work.

Tuesday was my last climbing day in Rifle and I was on a mission to try and do some more 5.13s. We warmed up at the Meathooks Wall, a wall that until today had been too busy to warm up on and then moved down to The Wasteland. I tried to onsight a 13a called Thieves but didn't really look at it too well and ended up going to the left at the top while the anchors were out to the right, another 2nd try route. Nii, Kaz and Kevin all tried The Beast with Kaz redpointing it. I then tried to onsight a hard 13b called Believe It, a super bouldery extension to Never Believe. Needless to say it was bouldery so I fell. We then headed to The Arsenal where I managed to onsight Matador Pants before heading back to The Bauhaus to try and flash Der Stihl. I didn't flash it but did do it 2nd try as it was getting dark.

Tomorrow I am heading up to Boulder, Co to visit the La Sportiva warehouse and shop then I have to drive the long, long drive back to Kelowna where I'll meet Audrey on the 31st. Wish me luck...

List of routes in Rifle:
  • 1 14a - Zulu (4th try this trip)
  • 4 13d - Simply Read (fourth), Living in Fear (2nd), Bride of Frankenstein (2nd), Huge (2nd)
  • 4 13c - Sometimes Always (2nd), Spray-a-thon (flash), The Path (2nd), Der Stihl (2nd)
  • 1 13b - Vision Thing (onsight)
  • 4 13a - Rendezspew (1st try), The Beast With Two Backs (1st try), Thieves (2nd), Matador Pants (onsight)
This Place Hurts - August 24th
I've had to switch to the one day on, one day off schedule here. At the end of each day my biceps and forearms are so sore I don't dare make plans to climb the following day. I've barely even touched the rock rings that I got from Metolius at the tradeshow. At least I can get some work done at the local library on restdays.

Tuesday I slept in a little and slowly made my way down to the Project Wall to warm up. I met up with Hayden who was also looking for some belays and after warming up I belayed him on Simply Read. He doesn't have much issue with the lower boulder problem but the upper one keeps spitting him off. I'm sure he'll do it soon though, he just looks so comfortable on the route. I tried to flash a route called Sometimes Always but the flash attempt was short lived when I struggled on a clip at the third or fourth bolt. I slowly made my way to the top and managed to redpoint it next attempt but it sure was sketchy moving to and clipping the anchors. We then moved down to The Arsenal. There's a route there that is quite famous called Spray-a-thon. My original plan was to try and onsight it but I chickened out and watched someone climb up to the fifth bolt. I then tried to flash it and was momentarily stymied by the dyno down low, I finally just commited to the jump and surprised myself by sticking it. I then wormed my way to the top trying to eke out as many rests as possible. After Spray-a-thon I tried to onsight/flash a route called The Path. I say onsight/flash because the beta I was receiving was from someone who had done it quite a few years earlier (still a huge thanks though Eric). I fell right near the top where there are probably 20 holds all scattered about and somehow I was holding onto the worst ones. I did manage to do it next go giving me three 5.13c routes in one day, and at Rifle to boot! Since I was already exhausted I figured I might as well take a burn up Zulu. I wasn't really giving it a serious effort but wanted to try and do all the moves again. I managed to get up it but it wasn't pretty, at least I have a sequence I can commit to though.

I had to take the next day off (one off, one on) since I was so sore and spent most of the day in the lovely air conditioned library. Somehow I managed to convince Nick Duttle to wake up at 5:30 on Thursday so we could go try Zulu when the air was cooler and hopefully the conditions were better. Well we woke up (and it was still dark out) and were on the rock by around 6:15. After a few warm-ups we headed over to Zulu and Nick got on to try and figure out some good beta for the top section. It was still cool and the sun wasn't on the rock when I had my first attempt of the day. I managed to get through the bottom boulder problem but my hands were a little numb (yes, it was that cold) and I had to squeeze harder than I wanted since I couldn't feel, in addition I had to hang out on a few of the rests longer than I wanted in order to lose the numbness. I was breathing hard but not super tired when I hid the mid-crux but since I hadn't been there even moderately tired before I wasted energy adjusting on holds and looking for feet. I barely made it through that section and then I was at the last bad rest before the final boulder problem. I couldn't really get anything back, I had flash pumped pretty good on the first boulder problem but I still launched into the final section hoping for the best. I was literally on the last holds when I couldn't remember what to do with my feet. I thought I had my feet right but then my left foot skidded and the energy required to get it back on just sapped me. I actually fell going for the good hold right before the finishing jug. I felt sick to my stomach from trying so hard though and was happy with the progress but upset for falling. I wasn't able to give it another burn in the morning and in fact it took a few hours for my arms to feel somewhat alive again. I napped a bit, did a few routes throughout the day and then finally decided to get on Zulu in the early evening. There had been a strong breeze all day and the conditions felt really good. After re-warming up I walked over and laced up for Zulu. It was definitely warmer out but there was a slight breeze. I managed to get through the bottom boulder problem and this time my hands and forearms felt fine. I was breathing hard but I didn't feel pumped or tired. Even the mid-section I managed to go through quite efficiently (knew where to put my feet this time) and found myself able to recover at the final rest. I climbed the last boulder problem really slow, trying to make sure my feet were perfect and clipped the anchors! I was pleasantly surprised to have completed the route in a relatively short amount of time. I thought the route was quite hard for me and there were about 15 different moves that I could fall at on any attempt. After Zulu I took a bit of a rest, belayed Sam on Gay Science and then went to find Nick to give him a belay on Zulu. Nick was at the Wasteland getting warmed up and a few people stopped in to say hi. Somehow they managed to peer pressure me into trying to onsight a classic route called Vision Thing. I was sauced before even leaving the ground but once I was on the wall I gave it everything left in me. I'm sure the sequence I ended up using was laughable but astoundingly I battled and clawed my way through the bottom part to a big rest. Above me was a large roof which I hoped would be easier climbing. It was easier but still tricky and I ended up grabbing holds that probably weren't ideal but they allowed me to get to the top and succeed on the onsight. Nick, you owe me a burger!

Today's another rest day but hopefully I'll be able to set up a line somewhere this evening and take some decent photos of this place.

On the climbing news front I just heard that Sean McColl just did a V14 problem called Aslan but even bigger than that Audrey redpointed her first 5.13b called Chronic at Little Si! Congrats to both of you!

Old Man Rifle - August 20th
I'm currently climbing down in Rifle, Colorado and someone commented at the crag last week that Rifle was like an old man, a little ornery and always willing to put people in their place. Well, Old Man Rifle has done a number on me. I've only climbed two days and already my biceps and forearms are sore!

After the tradeshow I drove out to Maple Canyon for two days to meet up with Kevin Wilkinson, Guy Agee and some friends of theirs. My hope was to do Divine Fury first try and actually I felt really good but had a foot slip in the upper section and didn't send. I decided to wait a day rather than giving it two burns on the first day (I was still tired from the after party) and fortunately did it first try on the following day. I then went up Millenium and tweaked my beta slightly since a hold had broken through the crux but managed to fire off Eulogy and extension of Millenium next try. I was pretty tired by then but still tried to flash Toxic Turkey and failed, oh well.

I was planning leaving early Thursday to drive out to Rifle but ended up working most of the day in Ephraim and didn't get away until pretty late. The bonus was that driving through southern Utah at sunset is gorgeous. I wasn't really in a hurry and ended up stopping a few times to take photos. I arrived in Rifle around noon on Friday and worked for a few hours from their library before heading up to the canyon and climbing a few routes to stretch out.

I was a little worried that it might be too busy on a Saturday to get much climbing done, especially as a long climber looking for belays but I really lucked out. I walked up to the Project Wall and knew about six people there. Some of them I had met out in the Red last fall while others I hadn't seen for years. In particular I was psyched to meet up with Scott Mechler, someone who used to routeset for ASCF competitions in the late 90s and who organized the PCA events a few years ago. I was also lucky enough to meet one of the sports future stars, Hayden Kennedy, who happened to be working a route I really wanted to try (Simply Read). I warmed up on two routes thanks to the belays of Whitney and Wendy and then watched Hayden try Simply Read. The bottom boulder problem looked horrendous while the upper boulder problem looked really core intensive. Hayden gave me the full run down for beta and I managed to flash the bottom boulder problem and get into some easier climbing. I heard a minor crowd form below as one person said 'I don't think this has ever been flashed before'. I'm not sure if it has been flashed before but it didn't fall to me. I fell in the upper boulder problem and it took me a few more tries to figure out how to get through it. In the afternoon I went to get on Zulu, a route I had tried last year and I just wanted to touch the holds today, see if I could remember the sequence. I'll be pretty amazed if I can tick this route off this trip.

On Sunday I went back to the project wall and climbed with some friends (Patrick, Herman and Jackie) I originally met in Smith Rock but have since seen down in Hueco and most recently at the SLC tradeshow. I tried Simply Read again but it took me a few tries to get through the bottom boulder problem. I was feeling pretty powered down from the previous day but fortunately on my first successful attempt through the boulder problem I made it to the top. Phew, I was really starting to get scared of the start. I spent the rest of the day hanging out and watching people climb. My body was just too wrecked to try anything else.

I woke up really sore today and actually spent about an hour stretching before borrowing a BMX from a friend, Nick, and riding up the road. I haven't been on a BMX in years and those things are hard to ride uphill! The only running around here is quite hilly and I wasn't excited about the prospect of running down hills so Nick suggested the BMX. I got a pretty damn good workout in a 20 minute ride uphill and a fun ride down. I'm currently in the Rifle library trying to do some work and catch up on some errands. Tomorrow? We'll see if Old Man Rifle relents and lets me have a good day.

Salt Lake City Tradeshow - August 12th
Well another summer Outdoor Retailer's Tradeshow has come and gone in Salt Lake City and this one for sure left me tired and still feeling woozy two days later. I had a blast and saw lots of old friends but thank god it only happens once a year.

After leaving Riggins I drove down to Maple Canyon, Utah to do two days of climbing before the tradeshow. I didn't know for sure who would be down there but with its close proximity to Salt Lake there is usually quite a few people hanging out before the show. I was pleasantly surprised to run into one of the Canadian Junior National Team members down there, Gabi Masse. Gabi and her twin sister Alex actually live in the San Francisco area but since they are Canadian citizens they can qualify and make the Canadian National Team. Two years ago for the world championships in Beijing I coached Alex and Gabi so it was great to see her outside climbing and climbing well. Gabi was there with her coach Scott Jenerik and two fellow San Francisco team members; Cicada Jenerik and Scott Cory. Then Vadim Vinokur and his girlfriend Gail Rothchild also showed up so I ended up know quite a few people. Over the two days there I tried yet another Kevin Wilkinson first ascent called Divine Fury. My first few times up this route I was pretty scared of it and didn't think I'd be able to link any moves. I'm an endurance climber but I need to be able to stop and rest and this route does not have very many rests on it. Suprisingly on the second day I almost linked the entire bottom section so I left Maple with the desire to return and send it.

Thursday morning I drove to Salt Lake City to attend the tradeshow. This will be my fourth time at one of these tradeshows and I'm pretty lucky in that I don't really have anything I'm supposed to do. I had a few meetings with sponsors but just to say hi and I was 'climbing' in the competition but that was just for a few hours on Friday. So most of the time I was socializing or working up in the business center.

For the comp on Friday I had asked to go first for two reasons; I wanted the freshest holds and I wanted the cooler temperatures. It turns out that since they had so many climbers register they had to keep adding people in front of me so I ended up climbing around 30th of 80 male climbers. Not being much of a boulderer I had no expectations and just wanted to be a part of it. I managed to flash the first problem but with five problems I knew they'd get hard and they'd get hard fast. The second problem shut me down almost immediately. I couldn't quite span across this vertical section to get the next handhold and ended up only getting the fourth hold on the route. I flashed the third problem then did okay on the fourth and fifth problems. When I was done climbing I was surprisingly in 3rd place. There were still 50 climbers to come but at least I knew I wasn't last. Even with only 20 climbers to go I was still in 7th position but those last 20 climbers were pretty damn strong and I finished up 22nd. Not bad for an old route climber who hasn't bouldered indoors in almost a year.

Saturday was more socializing and Audrey showed up around noon. She had travelled down with some friends who were in Squamish and she was hoping to meet some people to get some sponsorship. She had a few meetings lined up and in between we walked around and looked at some of the new cool gear. In the afternoon Jamie and Sarah (who had flown down the night before) met up with us and we went for a quick dinner before going to watch the finals. This year finals were held on the top of a parking garage just outside the OR venue. Even at 6pm when it was supposed to start it was still ridiculously hot out. I felt sorry for the women competitors that were up first. Not only was it hot out but the holds had been baking in the sun all day! Still the problems looked rad and Alex Johnson won by flashing all five of the womens final problems. By the time the men came out the sun had started to set but I'm sure it was still hot for them. The first problem had a huge dyno at the top that not many of the climbers could do. It was left to Chris Sharma to start the sending and even though he qualified fourth he was the only one to send problem number four, giving him the win. Next up was the after party and some complex drinking games that combined with free drinks left me very, very drunk. We wandered around SLC in the middle of the night looking for more partying but there was nothing to be found. So we ended up going back to the campsite we were staying in and trying to avoid the spins and get some sleep.

I woke up on Sunday after barely sleeping and felt horrible. Even drinking water made me queesy. We slowly made our way to the tradeshow where I tried to sleep on some crash pads and could barely socialize. Finally we decided to drive down to Maple Canyon for an afternoon climbing session. Jamie and Sarah had never been there while Audrey and I just wanted to get out climbing. As it turns out I didn't climb much and we didn't get there until quite late so the others only did about three routes each. Jamie was cursing his recent bouldering spree after just barely failing to onsight two 5.13a routes, he was past the crux on both but the maple-canyon-pump set in. We hiked out in the dark and drove back to Salt Lake.

All in all it was a great time although I don't think I'll drink like that again for awhile... at least I hope not.

Audrey, Jamie and Sarah all flew out Monday afternoon. We spent the morning walking around Temple Square and then going and getting some sandwiches at a place Jamie and Sarah had been to and loved. After dropping them off at the airport I went and did laundry then cruised on over to Maple Canyon. I'll probably spend a few days there and hopefully do Divine Fury before cruising on over to Rifle, Colorado to get my ass kicked on real hard sport climbs.

Four Days in Riggins - August 6th
I just finished four climbing days at an area called Riggins in Idaho. Kevin Wilkinson was right, the place suited me quite well. The bottoms of the routes were mostly chipped but generally fun movement that got you pumped for the climbing on the headwall. The headwall was about 10-20 degrees overhanging with bouldery moves and good rests, just my style! The town itself had free Internet at the library and a nice river for some swimming, not a bad place to spend a few days in the summer. I wasn't sure what sort of shape I was in after Australia and mostly just fooling around in and around Squamish for the past while. Honestly I expected to get spanked on everything.

The drive down was pretty uneventful. I started out late from Kelowna, was delayed while some old border guard decided to look through every container and bag in my truck and I ended up sleeping just off the road somewhere south of Spokane. I arrived at the climbing area around 11am on Wednesday and roused Kevin out of his van and hiked down to the climbing area. We headed straight to this main cave area. I'm not sure how many other areas there are around, I know there's a few but we spent all our time in the main cave. The cave itself it quite impressive. There's some easier routes (low 5.11) on the outside of the cave but within the cave itself is mostly mid 5.13 endurance routes. The bottom 30 feet is gently overhanging to a 10' roof and then a 50' headwall above. The headwall climbing makes it worth climbing the bottom of the routes. Kevin was resting today since he had just finished a few days of climbing and a friend was coming up to shoot photos on the weekend and Kevin needs his beauty rest. I warmed up on a low 5.12 to the left of the cave and then tried to flash a low 5.13 called Chicken Choker. The bottom of this route is entirely, blatantly drilled with thin little slots that I can barely get my fingers into but as with most routes the upper headwall was quite fun. Kevin's beta worked great for me and I managed to do it without falling or getting too pumped. Next up was a crag classic, Tractor Boy. This route has a pumpy low 5.13 bottom part to a no-hands-upside-down-kneebar rest and then pumpy climbing up the headwall. Fortunately I was feeling pretty good from the previous routes and managed to rest quite a bit going up so I barely used the kneebar rest and continued to shake out and move up the upper headwall for another flash. I didn't really get pumped and took some verbal abuse when I wrote that it was 'apparently pumpy' on my 8a scorecard. Sorry guys. To finish off the day I onsighted a more technical route called Yahtzee. I was screwing up the sequence the whole way and got more pumped on this than any other route of the day. I probably should've tried to onsight more of these routes but I was scared by how sequential and pumpy they looked.

Thursday we rested, spending most of the day in the library and a bit of time chilling out at a beach along the river. On Friday some friends of Kevin showed up; Jay Beyer, a photographer from Salt Lake City, and Jesse, a climbing friend from Kimberly, BC. Jay was hoping to shoot some photos of Kevin for some of Kevin's sponsors. We headed down and did a few warm-ups. Kevin was trying a new link-up that started up Yahtzee, then breaks left up three bolts of new climbing and finished up another route called Boo. The line itself looked like one of the best at the crag with really sustained climbing through the headwall. I flashed a route called Yellow Man, a route that had a huge dyno on the headwall, a dyno that I didn't want to do and I spent about 10 minutes (probably more like 2 minutes) trying different beta before finally pulling off a small hold to the left and still barely catching the jug you are supposed to throw to. Phew. After that I flashed another route called Captain Chaos, again using all Kevin's beta with some minor tweaks to make up for our differences in height. To finish off the day I tried a project called Power Tube, a short super bouldery route with small holds and big moves. The tenative grade is 5.14b and after I broke a hold through the crux I thought it might be harder (fortunately there was still enough of the hold to pull on and after some scrubbing at the dust it wasn't too bad). Jesse was working a super steep 12+ and every go he was pullng 100%, pretty amazing to watch. I left the cave a little early to go do some work while the others rigged up for some a photo shoot.

Late Friday a few friends from Spokane showed up including little Johnny (Johnny Goicochea) who isn't so little anymore and Brian Raymon who I haven't seen in a few years and who was convinced I was personally messing with his mind by flashing his projects. Ok, maybe I was. Saturday morning we headed down again and I was pretty sore from the previous day of climbing. After warming up I tried to flash a route called Shaven Haven, a route that Kevin did the FA of last fall. The bottom of the route isn't hard but is pretty sustained up through the roof with a hard pull to get over the lip and then finally a bit of a rest. I managed to get through the bottom section but was pretty tired and ended up falling near the top but managed to do it second try. Johnny was trying Power Tube and with all the burl he's got he was pretty close. He made the moves look much easier than they felt for me. Man, I wish I was that strong.

On Sunday we climbed again and it was to be mine and Kevin's last day in Riggins (at least for awhile). Kevin was really close to the new route he was trying YahBoo or Canadian Mushroom Stamp? and fell right near the top. I did Boo and while I was climbing it Brian was redpointing Yahtzee right beside me. It was pretty cool, while he was on a rest I was pulling a crux and while I was resting he was pulling cruxes so we were cheering each other on as we climbed. I then gave one try on Kevin's new route and fell right near the top as well. I was so pumped it was unbelievable. Kevin's beta didn't work for me at all, the moves were just too big so I was hanging out on bad holds trying to figure out beta and ended up taking a huge fall when I couldn't make the last difficult move. I tried Power Tube once more but it was a useless attempt, at least I didn't break anymore holds. Johnny however tried it three times today and on his last attempt he fell at literally the last hard move. It was awesome, he'll send for sure. In fact the whole crag seemed to be having a good weekend with quite a few people doing their projects or making good progress.

All in all it was a fun four days of climbing. The atmosphere was relaxed and fun with people slagging each other one moment and cheering each other on the next. I had a great time and look forward to going back sometime.

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