Page number: 137044

All photos and content
Copyright (©) 2002-2008
Michael Doyle.
Permission to redistribute,
copy or use the content
must be obtained from
Michael Doyle

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In the spring/summer of 2002 I took some time to write a training manual to be used by competition climbers who did not have coaches.
I did this as part of my duties as the head coach of the Canadian junior national team and I hoped it would spark interest in training/competitions across the country.
Currently this manual focuses on technique, strength, power, power endurance, endurance and mental preparation training for rock climbing.
This manual is in a constant state of flux so check back regularly to see what's new.

Training manual (HTML)
pdf version

I hope to add some sections on how to train, prepare and compete in the new style of bouldering competitions such as the PCA events or World Cup Bouldering events. I'll try to include different strategies that can be used in both styles and what to expect from the problems.

While this manual was intended for competition climbers the principles introduced can be used by climbers of any ability to improve both indoors and outdoors.
Feel free to contact me if you have any questions, or if you found the training manual useful.
Please note that this training manual is Copyright (©) Michael Doyle 2001-2006. Please do not reproduce, redistribute or repost without written permission from me.

Here is a link to a visualization drill that I have used when coaching the junior team.
It is designed to make the kids feel composed, confident and relaxed for the competition. Let me know what you think.
Visualization Drill

If you liked the training manual bookmark this page and use the search box below when searching the internet.

Recently I have received several emails asking if I will do single day or evening technique and training sessions.
While I am not against this I would rather do weekend or weeklong training and coaching sessions.

Are people interested in this? Would me travelling to a gym to do a training camp make sense?

I'm trying to determine the level of interest in this. If you think your local gym would be interested and could get 10-15 people together for a weekend let me know.

Contact info is available through a link on the left.

Mental Training Resource for Climbers - Arno Ilgner, author of The Rock Warrior's Way.

These guys support me so I'd appreciate it if you support them.

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